Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta

Sunday, November 29, 2020

How To Water a Tree

Watering a tree frequently will help prevent hydraulic failure and contribute to a healthy long life

Prevent unintended but improper watering, starvation, and hydraulic failure from killing your trees. Knowing how and when to water your trees will help them flourish and maintain steady growth. gathered the following information about how much water your trees need, the best water delivery method, and the best time to water them.

How Much Water Does a Tree Need Daily

From the time your trees are planted through their maturity, moist, well-drained soil is needed to encourage vigorous growth. It is your tree’s age and size that help you determine the amount of water it needs. Consider the following:

Tree deep watering after planting provides needed moisture for roots to start establishing

Newly planted trees – After planting, your trees need consistent watering until their root systems grow and establish themselves. Root systems of newly planted trees, being bare-root, balled, or container-grown, are severely limited when planted and require more frequent waterings. The following watering intervals will help the tree adapt to its new location:

  1. Daily watering during the first two weeks after planting
  2. Every three days from three to twelve weeks
  3. Weekly deep waterings after twelve weeks

Deep waterings soak the ground to a depth of nine to twelve inches or more. Deep watering encourages deep root growth away from the tree, establishing a broad and sturdy root plate.

Note: Superficial or shallow watering, during a tree’s development, encourages roots to surface. Surface roots increase the risk of diseases and infestations successfully attacking the tree.

Tip: When topsoil is saturated, fast-flowing water will begin to “runoff,” taking nutrients with it. Slow down the flow of water to allow for deep soil penetration.

Established Trees – Measure the trunk diameter 4 to 6 inches above the ground. For every inch in trunk diameter, your tree requires 1 to 1.5 times that measurement in gallons of water per watering. For example:

  • 1-inch diameter requires 1 to 1.5 gallons per watering
  • 3-inch diameter requires 3 to 4.5 gallons per watering
  • 5-inch diameter requires 5 to 7.5 gallons per watering
Mature tree watering is determined on the trunk diameter

Note: The time it takes for a tree’s roots to establish themselves is coincidentally 1.5 times the trunk diameter (at the time of planting), in years.

Tip: Maintain a fresh 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the tree at all times. Mulch regulates soil temperature, helps soil retain moisture, and provides valuable nutrients to the soil as it decomposes.

Best Tree Watering Methods

Overhead sprinkler or spray systems help you cover large areas of your landscape. However, these systems are highly inefficient due to evaporation and sharply increase the potential spread of tree diseases. Consider the following watering methods:

Bucket Watering – Using a 5-gallon bucket, follow these steps:

  1. Use an empty, clean bucket
  2. Drill multiple 1/4 inch holes (at different heights) around the wall, and in the bottom of the bucket
  3. Fill the bucket with the amount of water needed for the tree
  4. Set the bucket near the tree trunk and let it drain
  5. Repeat the process or use multiple buckets as needed

The height and angle of the holes in the bucket wall will determine where and how quickly the exiting water goes.

Soaker Hoses – These hoses are a highly efficient way to water your trees. Soaker hoses are porous and slowly release water. All you need to do is loosely encircle your tree with the hose and let it run for an hour or as long as necessary for water to penetrate 8 to 12-inches.

Hose/Watering Bubbler – These devices are hose-end attachments that reduce the speed and reach of water, soaking into the soil rather than running off. Since bubblers only water one area at a time, you should move the bubbler around as needed.

Drip Irrigation – This method uses a perforated hose and is a low-pressure, low-volume watering system, delivering water to landscapes, gardens, and tree root plates through a drip, spray, or stream. Drip irrigation systems keep roots moist, but not soaked, using much less water than traditional hose watering.

Watch this video to see different tree watering methods.

Best Time to Water Trees

You can determine when to water your trees based on when they were planted. However, once they are established and reach maturity, they still need watering, as follows:

  • During drought conditions, provide enough deep waterings to keep the soil moist, in a wide band within and outside of the tree’s dripline
  • When the soil is dry (test soil by driving an 8-inch screwdriver into the ground, it will pass easily through moist soil)
  • When your tree droops or appears wilted (this may indicate an infection or infestation)
  • During winter months (when temperatures are above 40°F without snow coverage)
  • During summer months, avoid watering from 10am to 5pm. Water your trees, with better results, early in the morning or in the evening

Tip: Trees use much more water in the summer months than at other times of the year. During these months, your attention and watering frequencies should be increased.

If water restrictions are imposed on your region, water your trees before your lawn and garden (you can replace grass and plants much easier than trees).

Note: The water absorbed by tree roots is stored in the soil. Soil type, depth, composition, and condition greatly influence the amount of water the soil can store, and consequently, how often you may need to water your trees. Soils with heavier clay composition retain more water and need less frequent irrigation. Sandy soils retain little water in comparison and require more frequent irrigation.

Soil composition will determine how much moisture will be stored for roots to absorb

Read more about soil considerations for trees at

Tree Watering

In this article, you discovered how much water trees need for vigorous growth, watering methods, and when they should be watered.

Knowing when to water your trees from planting throughout their maturity, helps them grow healthy and resistant to drought conditions.

When you rely on nature to provide water for your trees, you risk compromising your tree’s health and pave the way for disease and infestation to kill it.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit:

Tuesday, November 17, 2020

Tree Repair Split Trunk

Split tree trunk after severe weather

Prevent a split trunk from killing your tree. Knowing how to help your tree recover when its trunk splits can add decades to its lifespan. gathered the following information on methods to secure a tree when its trunk splits, what damages can lead to splitting, and how to help a tree overcome such damages.

How to Fix a Splitting Tree

When your tree starts to split, the faster you act to fix it, the more chance it will recover from this life-threatening event. The following are methods used to provide a tree with structural support:

Cabling – Cabling a tree is when you tie off and extend a steel cable from one tree limb to another across from it(within the crown). The objective is to reduce the expansive forces placed on the area where the trunk branches off, becoming the crown.

Tree cabling to prevent excess stress and trunk splitting

This is an effective corrective method when the trunk is in the very beginning phase of splitting. However, depending on where the trunk is splitting, it may be necessary to provide further stability (using a brace) for the tree to seal its wounds.

Bracing – Bracing a tree is when you drill a hole or holes through the trunk (where the split is occurring) and run threaded steel rods through the hole(s). Observe the following:

  • Drill a smaller “starter” hole to avoid larger bits getting stuck in the trunk
  • Drill your holes slowly, allowing the bit to draw out the sawdust (drilling too fast can seize the bit in the hole)
  • Unless perfectly aligned, you may have to pound (force) the rod through the hole(s)
  • Use double washers on each end to avoid further bark damage as the nuts are tightened
Bracing trees to prevent splitting and severe tree damage

Once the rods are inserted, large washers and nuts are placed at each end and tightened until ideally closing the gap where the trunk split.

Bracing alone can be used when the split occurs on the lower portion of the tree’s trunk. When the split is near the top of the trunk or in a crotch, both bracing and cabling are advised to prevent windsnap from occurring.

Tip: One brace should be used for every 4 to 6-inches the trunk has split.

Cabling and bracing are not temporary solutions. If successful, after several growing seasons, the tree will compartmentalize and seal the crack along with the cables and braces where they are in contact with the tree.

Note: This work should be done while a tree is dormant or fully leafed out. Try to avoid doing this in spring or fall when the tree is most vulnerable to damages and/or diseases.

Cabling and/or bracing should not be attempted on diseased trees splitting from structural decomposition. Such trees should be carefully removed and destroyed.

Tree Wound Repair

Severe storms, drought, disease, and infestations can take a toll on a tree’s health and structure. Here’s how to address different types of damage to avoid future trunk splitting:

Young Tree Damage – Young trees quickly recover from damages if caught early enough. As long as the leader and branching structure is intact, prune broken or affected branches back to the trunk.

Mature Tree Damage – A mature tree can lose a major limb and recover. The broken or damaged branch should be pruned back to the trunk. After losing a major limb, your tree’s balance may be thrown off enough to initiate a split in a crotch or in the trunk.

Tree severely damaged after weather event

Bracing and/or cabling may be required to support the tree’s structure after losing a major limb.

Sometimes, when a branch is diseased or is no longer photosynthesizing enough nutrients, the tree may shed the branch through a process called cladoptosis (self-pruning).

Tree Bark Damage – When bark damage occurs in more than 25% of the trunk’s circumference, your tree is likely girdled, and a portion of the tree may die. Depending on your tree’s structure and the extent of the damages, the affected part of the tree may split away from the healthy part.

When you detect extensive bark damage on your tree, hire an arborist to evaluate the tree and determine a course of action.

Read more about tree bark damage at

Lightning Strike – A lightning strike has the potential to not only split a tree but superheat it, evaporating all of the moisture within.

Lightning strikes can severely damage a tree by severing the crown splitting the trunk or causing it to explode

Sometimes, a tree can survive a lightning strike but will need extensive pruning, care, and support to overcome such a devastating event.

In other cases, the tree may suffer a severed crown, a full splitting of the trunk, or even explode. Such events will ultimately kill the tree.

In the event of a lightning strike to your tree, hire a professional tree service to evaluate your tree’s structure and stability. Sometimes, bracing and cabling can hold the tree together long enough for it to recover.

Irreparable Damage – Some damages are simply too much for a tree to overcome. The following are examples of when your tree should be removed:

  • Crown Loss (more than 25%)
  • Windsnap (tree breaks in half)
  • Windthrow (tree uproots)
  • Heart Rot
  • Root Rot
  • Full Trunk Split

Diseases and insect infestations can take a toll on a tree’s health and act as a gateway for multiple stressors to ultimately kill the tree. Read more about what can kill a tree at

Tree Repair

In this article, you discovered how to prevent a split from worsening in a tree, some factors that lead to splits in trees, and how to help a tree repair its wounds.

You can significantly extend the life of your tree by stopping it from splitting and preventing conditions that encourage splits to occur.

Ignoring the signs of a splitting tree can result in catastrophic damages when your tree loses its stability and falls on your property.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit:

Monday, October 19, 2020

Tree Boring Insects

Tree boring insects include beetles weevils and clearwings

Prevent tree boring insects from crippling and quickly killing your trees. By knowing how to identify when your trees have been attacked, you can take steps to halt the advancement of these killer bugs. gathered the following information on tree boring insects, infestation signs, and how to treat infested trees.

Round-Headed Borers (Coleoptera: Cerambycidae)

Referred to as long-horned beetles in their adult stage, the larvae of these beetles tunnel beneath the bark and into their host tree’s heartwood. Some of the round-headed borer species include:

Locust Borer (Megacyllene robiniae) – This long-horned beetle can be found feeding on goldenrod and other flowers in the fall. Larvae hatch from eggs laid in tree bark crevices then tunnel into the inner bark, constructing cells in which they spend the winter months. It takes about a year before the larvae are fully grown and about an inch in length.

Watch this video for more information about locust borers.

Visible infestation symptoms include wet spots, oozing sap, and frass on the bark of black locusts.

Cottonwood Borer (Plectrodera scalator) – This beetle is frequently found on or attacking cottonwood, poplar, or willow trees. Adult beetles are active from May through August, and the larvae tunnel at the base of the trunk or below ground level. It takes about 2 years for this species to develop and emerge as adult beetles.

Multiple cottonwood borer attacks can result in defoliation, crown wilt, stem or branch dieback, and eventual death.

Red-Headed Ash Borer (Neoclytus acuminatus) – This is one of the more common wood-boring beetles. Red-headed ash borers feed on many wood species, including ash, oak, elm, and grapes. Adults can be found on log piles and frequently emerge from firewood.

Red Oak Borer (Enaphalodes rufulus) – This beetle attacks oak and maple trees and can be a serious threat in nurseries. Adults lay eggs individually in bark crevices during mid to late summer. Larvae then tunnel under the bark and into the tree’s heartwood.

Larvae usually tunnel completely around the trunk or branches they infest, resulting in girdling. Red oak borers feed on their host for more than one year before pupating in the chambers tunneled into the heartwood. Red oak borer damage kills limbs, terminals, or the entire tree and greatly increases the risk of secondary infestations and diseases.

Like other boring insect symptoms, red oak borer infestations can be detected by frass around buckled bark near the gallery entrance.

Twig Girdler (Oncideres species) – Damage from this borer occurs primarily from egg-laying. This insect affects pecan, mimosa, chinaberry, and huisache (sweet acacia). During the fall, adults girdle limbs by chewing a V-shaped groove entirely around twigs, branches, or terminals. Eggs are then deposited into the bark on the girdled branch away from the tree.

Watch this video for more about twig girdlers.

Girdled limbs eventually die and break, falling to the ground during high winds and storms. Damage can significantly disfigure a young tree and lead to secondary branching. Larvae are unable to develop in healthy sapwood. Removing and destroying girdled twigs and branches from the ground in winter and spring can significantly reduce this insect population.

Twig and Branch Pruners (Elaphidionoides and Agrilus species) – This insect species inflicts damage similar to that of twig girdlers on several tree species, including:

  • Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)
  • Persimmon (Diospyros kaki)
  • Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
  • Elm (Ulmus)
  • Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis)
  • Hickory (Carya)
  • Maple (Acer)
  • Oak (Quercus)
  • Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)

With twig girdlers, it’s the adults that inflict damage. With twig and branch pruners, it is the larvae that feed beneath the bark, girdling twigs and branches. Resulting damages accompanied by repeated attacks can jeopardize a tree’s health, leaving it susceptible to other harmful insect infestations and diseases.

Flat-Headed Borers (Coleoptera: Buprestidae)

These metallic tree-boring beetles have flattened, hard-bodied, and with short antennae. These beetles are beautiful insects with distinctive metallic colors (blue, green, copper, bronze, etc.). When flat-head borer larvae tunnel beneath the bark and/or into the sapwood, they leave oval or flattened, winding tunnels filled with frass. This tunneling can girdle trunks and branches, killing its host expeditiously.

Emerald ash borer (Agrillus planipennis) (EAB) – Adults are distinctive metallic green beetles that have killed hundreds of millions of ash trees in North America. The larvae feed on the inner bark of ash trees from early summer to mid-fall, causing hydraulic failure and death. Infested native ash trees are all susceptible to attack. The insect has also been found attacking white fringe trees (Chionanthus virginicus).

Watch this video for more information about the Emerald Ash Borer.

Flatheaded Apple Tree Borer (Chrysobothris femorata) – This species is a severe threat to small, stressed landscape trees, primarily flowering crab apples, hawthorns, and maples when stressed.

This aggressive borer may attack almost any hardwood tree that is stressed by:

  • Defoliation
  • Sun Scald
  • Drought
  • Soil Compaction
  • Mechanical Injury

Similar to an EAB infestation, it makes broad winding tunnels under the bark, destroying the phloem, cambium, and outer xylem. A single borer can girdle and kill a small tree.

Bronze Birch Borer (Agrilus anxius) – This borer is a severe threat to white or paper birch. Symptoms of an infestation include twig and branch dieback. With successive years of attack, the tree becomes progressively weaker until it is killed.

D-shaped adult exit holes are a clear indication of an infestation. Adult bronze birch borers are slender, olive-bronze beetles begin emerging, and laying eggs in mid to late spring.

Note: With the exception of species like the emerald ash borer, most of these borers are secondary invaders, occurring when a tree’s defenses are weakened by previous infestations and/or diseases.

Watch this video for more about birch tree issues.

Bark beetles (Coleoptera: Curculionidae)

Southern Pine Beetle (Dendroctonus frontalis) – This species is a primary threat to southern pine forests. Adult beetles are active during warmer months and disperse widely to healthy, injured, weakened, or stressed trees in the spring.

Six or more generations of beetles may occur within one calendar year. This beetle’s larvae tunnel beneath the bark, producing tunnels or galleries in patterns resembling the letter “S.” This tunneling disrupts the cambium layer, girdling the tree, and causing hydraulic failure.

Infested tree needles turn reddish-brown shortly after infestation during the summer months, and up to 3 months afterward in the winter.

Removal and careful destruction of infested trees can help prevent healthy trees in the vicinity from being attacked.

Watch this informative video about pine beetles.

Granulate Ambrosia Beetle (Xylosandrus crassiusculus) – This destructive beetle attacks healthy, stressed, or freshly cut:

  • Elm (Ulmus)
  • Oak (Quercus)
  • Pecan (Carya illinoinensis)
  • Peach (Prunus persica)
  • Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)

Dark reddish-brown adult female beetles tunnel into twigs, branches, or trunks, excavating a system of tunnels in the wood or pith in which eggs are deposited. Along with eggs, they introduce a fungus on which the larvae will feed after hatching.

Visible damage includes wilted leaves and protrusions of compressed wood dust from numerous small holes. Cankers can form at the damage site, eventually girdling the tree and killing it.

Chemical control of this beetle species is generally unsuccessful. Promoting the health and vigorous growth of your trees provides a more successful means of control, as ambrosia beetles tend to avoid attacking healthy, thriving trees.

Note: The European elm bark beetle (Scolytus multistriatus) is the carrier of Dutch elm disease. Dutch elm disease (DED) has decimated the US elm tree population over the past century.

For more information about ambrosia beetles, read

Weevils (Coleoptera: Curculionidae)

Weevils are beetles and are almost entirely plant feeders. The majority of species are associated with a specific range of hosts, in some cases only thriving on a single species. Some of the species present in the US include:

Asiatic Oak Weevil (Cyrtepistomus castaneus) – This weevil is present throughout much of the East. Small, legless grubs find refuge in hardwood tree roots, surviving the fall, winter, and early spring. During this time, the grubs pupate and adults emerge during the spring to feed on oak and chestnut foliage. They feed on the margins of leaves, sometimes consuming all but the main veins.

Although Asiatic oak weevils feed primarily on oaks and chestnut, they have been known to attack other woody plants.

The Asiatic oak weevil has not developed resistance to insecticides as of yet. Just about any insecticide labeled for landscape use should give adequate control.

Chichí Weevil or Citrus Root Weevil (Diaprepes abbreviatus) – This species was discovered in southern California in 2005, where it affects citrus, avocado, and nursery stock. It is also known to infest sugarcane, tuber crops like potatoes, and many species of ornamental plants.

Female citrus root weevils can lay up to 5,000 eggs, depositing them in clusters on plant foliage. The weevil then folds and glues the leaves together. Larvae emerge from the eggs after one week, drop to the ground, and begin to burrow down to the host plant’s roots. Larvae cause significant damage as they feed on the roots for several months.

While the adult weevil feeds on the plant’s foliage, the larvae do the most damage. They often partially or entirely consume the taproot of the plant, which can kill it. Phytophthora is a common disease in plants attacked by this weevil.

The weevil spreads by cross-contamination when infested equipment plants, soil, and containers are moved or used from site to site.

Watch this video for more on Diaprepes root weevils.

Palmetto Weevil (Rhynchophorus cruentatus) – Most active in late spring and early summer, this weevil is native to Florida and is found as far west as southern Texas and South Carolina to the north. The palmetto weevil is the largest and only species of palm weevil in North America.

This weevil’s preferred plant species include:

  • Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis)
  • Sabal palms (Sabal palmetto)
  • Coconut palms (Cocos nucifera)
  • Toddy palm (Caryota urens)
  • Bismarck palm (Bismarckia nobilis)
  • Saw palmetto (Serenoa repens)
  • Washington fan palm (Washingtonia robusta)
  • Tropical fan palms (Pritchardia beccariana)
  • Royal palms (Roystonea regia)
  • Blue latan palm (Latania loddigesii)

Palm trees are usually attacked when distressed, making transplanted trees a frequent target. Palmetto Weevils mate at the base of the branches where the females then deposit their eggs.

The grubs then bore into the palm tree, killing it. Damage is only visible after the larvae have turned into adult weevils, and by then, it is too late to save the tree. The life cycle of this weevil, from egg to adult, is about 80 to 85 days.

Note: While most weevil larvae do not bore into the cambium layer or heartwood of trees, they do cause enough damage to allow multiple successful attacks from other, more invasive, insect species.

Clearwing Borers (Podosesia syringae)

As adults, clearwing borers are delicate, wasp-like moths, active in the daytime. In this form, little to no damage is inflicted, as they only feed on nectar or not at all. The damaging larvae are whitish, hairless brown-headed caterpillars. Types of clearwing borers include:

Banded Ash Clearwing Borer (Podosesia aureocincta) – Attacks only ash, principally green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica). Most active in August and September.

Carpenterworms (Prionoxystus robinae) – These large larvae tunnel through the trunks of oak, elm, willow, ash, boxelder, poplar, cottonwood, black locust, and fruit trees. These larvae spend 2 to 3 years developing, feeding underneath the bark in the cambium, and later tunneling into the heartwood. Carpenterworms, unlike other larvae, enter and exit the trunk of the tree multiple times during their development.

Watch this video for more on carpenterworms.

Dogwood Borer (Synanthedon scitula) – Attacks flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). Infestations in young trees occur in the main trunk where mechanical injuries are present. Infestations in older trees typically occur near pruning scars, cankers, or cracked bark. Small wet areas on the bark indicate young borer activity in early summer.

Lilac Borer (Podosesia syringae) – This species attacks lilac, ash, and privet anywhere east of the Rocky Mountains. The majority of infestations occur from the root flare up to about 3 feet. Most active in April or May.

Rhododendron Borer (Synanthedon rhododendri) – Attacks rhododendrons and, occasionally, mountain laurel and flowering azaleas.

Peachtree borer (Synanthedon exitiosa) and
Lesser Peachtree Borer (Synanthedon pictipes)
– These borers attack trees of the Prunus species, including fruit and ornamental varieties. Peachtree borer larvae attack young trees, while the lesser peachtree borer seeks older trees.

The tree species most affected by clearwing borers include:

  • Ash (Fraxinus)
  • Dogwood (Cornus florida)
  • Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
  • Oak (Quercus)
  • Rhododendron (Rhododendron ferrugineum)
  • Flowering Peach (Prunus persica)
  • Flowering Plums (Prunus cerasifera)
  • Flowering Cherries (Prunus serrulata)

Signs of a Clearwing Borer Infestation – Signs of a clearwing borer infestation can appear similar to those of other boring insects. Use the following to distinguish the difference:

  1. Terminal shoots, branches, and the crown will show signs of dieback.
  2. Cracked bark, cankers, and calluses may form around infestation sites.
  3. Large limbs may die, be weakened to the point of falling in the wind, or be self pruned from the tree.
  4. These borers leave coarse, dark frass behind in cracks in the bark.
  5. When a Prunus species is successfully attacked, frass may be mixed with oozing sap or gum.
  6. When adults emerge from the tree, they leave an empty shell (pupal skin) protruding from the bark.

Tip: As woodpeckers and other birds hunt the larvae, they leave feeding holes behind. This is a significant indication that your tree is infested.

Tree boring insects are hunted by animals like squirrels and woodpeckers

Note: Older, more established trees may be re-infested year after year until they eventually die or fall.

Wood and Tree Boring Insects

When dealing with a tree boring insect infestation (suspected or confirmed), call on an ISA certified arborist’s knowledge and experience. Locate an arborist in your area by visiting

If you suspect or have a confirmed emerald ash borer infestation, visit to identify the correct agency for reporting the infestation.

Insect webs can lead to tree decay, disease, and death, so be vigilant about spotting pests and insects in your trees. You can also contact your state’s forestry service for information about potential and current threats in your area. Visit to locate a regional office in your area.

Disclaimer: If you choose to use chemical treatments on affected trees, cut wood, and/or ground soaks, locate, read, and follow all manufacturer’s advisories and recommendations.

Tree Killing Boring Insects

In this article, you discovered species information, traits, and treatment for some of the most destructive tree boring insects.

By knowing how to identify trees in decline and the pest causing it, you can take quick measures to save your tree and/or contain an insect’s outbreak.

Ignoring an attacked tree’s signs can result in the spread and perpetuation of a deadly tree boring insect infestation.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit:

Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Tree Care Tips

Tree care begins with proper planting and soil condition

Prevent your trees from becoming a hazard to your property and wellbeing. By knowing how to care for your trees, you can add decades to their lifespan while protecting yourself and property. gathered the following tree care tips that promote the health of your tree from the time you plant it through its maturity.

Plant the Right Tree in the Right Place

Tree care begins when you select a species that fits your yard or landscape. Then, planting that tree in the right location will save you from dealing with grave tree health problems down the road. Consider the following:

Species – When selecting a tree species for your yard or landscape, you should answer the following questions:

  • Is the species evergreen or deciduous? Deciduous trees lose their foliage in the fall. 
  • Is the species understory or overstory? Overstory species can reach 80 to 100 feet or more. 
  • Is the species flowering or fruit-bearing? After several years of growth, you may have an annual harvest to feast on.
  • Is the species known to have invasive roots? Invasive roots can cause expensive damage to foundations and underground utilities.

Location – Determine multiple potential locations to plant your tree. Just because you think it would look good in one space doesn’t mean it has sufficient room or optimal conditions to reach maturity.

Look Up – Depending on the species of the tree you want to plant, consider its maximum height at maturity and if it will interfere with anything overhead i.e., power lines, road to house connections, etc.

Overstory trees planted in areas without power lines or overhead obstructions

What’s Below – As your tree grows upward, root growth will occur downward and outward. Verify the location of water mains, sewage lines, septic tanks, underground utilities, etc.

Call 8-1-1 to request a property inspection or visit to see the requirements and/or regulations in your state.

What Surrounds the Location – Your planting site should be 15 to 20 feet from driveways, sidewalks, fences, your home, and other structures to avoid root damage as the tree matures.

Read more about planting trees at

How To Select a Healthy Tree

Once you’ve chosen the species and future location of your tree, observe the following to select a healthy specimen to plant:

Healthy growing tree selection

Examine The Tree – It should look healthy with bright bark, and include the following:

  • A well-developed leader
  • Well-distributed branches
  • Branches low on the trunk
  • Free from signs of disease and insect infestation
  • Free from signs of mechanical injury and breaks

Avoid purchasing trees with signs of drought. Take extra care to examine the foliage, twigs, and limbs. They should be firm but flexible, without signs of drying.

Examine The Roots – Before settling on a specimen, look for the following traits in its roots:

Bare-Root Seedlings and Saplings – When looking at bare-root specimens, the roots should be:

  • Free from damage or breaks
  • Moist and developed
  • Roughly the length of its stems (for deciduous species)

If something looks or feels wrong, chances are, it is wrong. Be very selective when choosing a tree to plant.

Watch this video to see how bare-root trees are properly planted.

Balled and Burlapped Trees – These are trees that have had their root ball preserved and are typically wrapped in burlap. The following should be observed when looking at balled or burlapped trees:

  • The root ball should be firm
  • It should be moist but not wet
  • The root ball should be proportional to the tree’s size
  • The root ball should be firm around the trunk (no slack)

Avoid purchasing trees that appear loosely attached to their root ball. Chances are the root system has sustained significant damage or has dried out.

Watch this video to see how balled and burlapped trees are properly planted.

Container-Grown Trees – Container-grown trees can come with severe root growth problems. Inspect tree roots growing in containers as follows:

  • If the container contains large, circling roots, these roots will likely continue to circle when planted in the ground. This condition may lead to the girdling and premature death of your tree.
  • If roots have been pruned, examine them closely. Pruned roots should have clean cuts, while larger roots should be left intact.
  • Like with burlapped root balls, the soil and roots should be firmly joined together.

As with bare-root and burlapped trees, container-grown trees should appear healthy with no signs of disease or insect infestation. Read more about warning signs and tree problems at

Watch this video to see how container-grown trees are properly planted.

Watering Your Trees

From the time your trees are planted, through maturity, they will need moist, well-drained soil for healthy growth.

Newly planted trees need regular and consistent watering until their root systems establish. Root systems of trees, whether bare-root, balled and burlapped, or container, are severely restricted and require more frequent waterings. Consider the following watering intervals:

  • Daily watering for two weeks after planting
  • Every three days from three weeks to twelve weeks
  • Weekly deep waterings after twelve weeks

Once planted, root systems grow and establish themselves until they expand much wider than the canopy of the tree. This process takes one and a half to two years, and watering intervals should continue through this time.

Regular and consistent tree watering for vigorous growth

The amount of water your tree requires can be calculated by the caliper of its trunk at planting. For trees with diameters up to four inches, measure the trunk six inches above the ground. For those greater than four inches, measure the trunk at twelve inches above the ground.

For every inch in diameter, your tree will require 1 to 1.5 times that number in gallons of water per irrigation. Coincidentally, The time it takes for the tree’s roots to establish themselves is also 1.5 times that number in years. For example:

  • 1-inch caliper requires 1.5 years and 1 to 1.5 gallons per irrigation
  • 3-inch caliper requires 4.5 years and 4 to 4.5 gallons per irrigation
  • 5-inch caliper requires 7.5 years and 5 to 7.5 gallons per irrigation

Note: A deep watering soaks the ground around the tree to a depth of nine to twelve inches. This type of watering encourages roots to grow deep and away from the tree, establishing a sturdy root plate.

Tip: Avoid overhead watering to prevent the unintentional spreading of harmful pathogens to your trees.

Mulching Your Trees

Mulching newly planted trees with three inches of organic mulch optimizes root production by:

  • Helping the soil retain moisture
  • Acts as an absorbent, preventing water runoff
  • Insulates the soil from extreme heat and/or cold temperatures
  • Helps prevent soil compaction
  • Improves soil as it decomposes
  • Decreases competition from turf and weed roots

Tip: Keep mulch from contacting the trunk or root flare of the tree. This helps prevent rot.

Note: Using too much mulch can suffocate roots or cause the soil to retain too much water, leading to root rot.

Watch this video to see mulching best practices.

Fertilizing Your Trees

Fertilizer is often misused, it is not plant food. Trees produce their own food by making sugars through a process called photosynthesis. The minerals and/or nutrients released by fertilizer provide needed ingredients for photosynthesis and growth to occur.

Fertilizer applied in the first years of established, transplanted trees can speed up canopy growth and help young trees fill up space in your landscape. Slow-release fertilizers are recommended for recently planted trees and shrubs.

Nutrients commonly found in fertilizers are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Other nutrients used in fairly large quantities are calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Organic fertilizers, like compost, cow manure, or fertilizer blends, provide nitrogen and other nutrients slowly. An advantage of organic fertilizers is their delivery of minor nutrients (minerals required in small amounts such as iron or zinc) not usually found in commercial fertilizers. Organic fertilizers also improve soil structure.

Soil pH should be tested annually and adjusted as needed. Generally, the best growing conditions for trees occur in soils with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. However, some species may require more acidic or more basic soils.

Tip: If you annually fertilize your turf with a slow-release fertilizer, you will likely not need to fertilize your trees.

Read more about fertilizing trees at

Pruning Your Trees

Typically, people will prune to improve the aesthetics of a tree by removing unwanted growth. However, trees are often pruned only to maintain a desired shape or size to fit a location. This is usually the result of a poor choice of location or because the wrong tree species was selected for that space.

Tree pruning encourages new and healthy growth

The best time to prune a tree is when it is in its dormancy period, generally at the very begging of winter or just before spring. During this time, the risk of infection is minimal, and potential damage to the tree is significantly reduced. Consider the following when pruning a tree:

  • Always prune with purpose
  • Before pruning, make sure your tools are sterile
  • Before starting, learn how and where to cut
  • A wound is forever contained by compartmentalization within the tree, a lot of care should be applied when deciding what to prune
  • Tree growth problems are best corrected when they are young. Smaller cuts do lesser damage than larger cuts.

When trees are damaged by a storm or suffer damages from illnesses and infestations, prune to remove affected limbs.

Watch this video to see pruning best practices.

Note: When in doubt about pruning, hire a professional tree service to evaluate your tree and do the pruning for you.

Read more about pruning and caring for young trees at

Caring for Trees

In this article, you discovered tips to help your trees thrive from the time they are planted through their maturity.

By knowing how to provide proper care for your trees, you are giving them the chance to live a long, sturdy life.

When you plant a tree and simply let it be, you create the risk for abnormal growth, diseases, and insect infestations that can weaken and quickly kill your tree.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit:

Tuesday, July 21, 2020

Tree Storm Damage

Storm damaged fallen tree emergency removal

Prevent your storm-damaged tree from dying or falling and causing catastrophic property damages. By knowing how to help and repair your tree after suffering storm damages, you can potentially avoid the need for its removal. gathered the following information on how to assess tree damage, treat a damaged tree, determine when a tree should be removed, and what you can do to prevent tree storm damage.

Assessing Tree Storm Damage

Before determining that your tree is beyond saving, assess the tree by asking the following six questions about the visible state of the tree.

Question #1 – Are the tree’s largest limbs damaged or broken?

Broken tree limbs after severe weather events

Recommendation – If your tree has lost its largest or a majority of its limbs, it will likely not survive. Consider contracting a professional tree service to remove the tree.

Question #2 – Was the leader (the main upward extension of the trunk) lost in the storm?

Recommendation – This is a judgment call on your part. Your tree may survive losing its leader but will likely grow deformed and/or stunted.

Question #3 – Has the tree lost more than 30% of its crown?

Recommendation – When a tree loses more than 30% of its crown, there may not be enough foliage left to provide nourishment to it. Trees in this situation need to be closely monitored and removed if there is no evidence of recovery in the following growing season.

Question #4 – Looking at the damaged crown, can you identify enough healthy branches that can reconstitute both branch structure and crown foliage.

Recommendation – If the answer is yes, allow the tree several growing seasons to “fill out” the crown. If the tree declines and cannot rebound from its damages, you will know that the answer was no.

Question #5 – Is there extensive bark damage?

Recommendation – In cases where there are multiple areas of bark damage on the trunk and/or larger branches, disease and insect infestation are of significant concern. Read more about how you can treat bark damage at

Question #6 – Is your tree healthy?

Recommendation – If your tree was already in decline (from disease or infestation) before suffering storm damage, you should immediately request a tree hazard assessment. If the tree was healthy, thriving, and did not suffer extreme damages, it should recover if cared for after the storm.

Note: Before determining the fate of your tree, take into consideration that, after sustaining weather-related damages, healthy trees will typically go through a phase of rapid growth over several growing seasons.

Tip: If at any time you experience difficulty in determining whether or not to keep your tree, request a tree hazard assessment by a professional tree service.

How To Treat Tree Storm Damage

After any severe weather event, your tree(s) should be examined for damages. Once you have clearly identified damaged areas of your tree, consider the following:

  • Prune damaged limbs back, at least one foot before the damage towards the trunk
  • Prune the limb/branch off the tree if the damages are too close to the trunk

If there is significant structural damage to the trunk, including splits and/or cracks, a professional tree service should be hired to remove the tree. This type of damage is dangerous and holds the potential to quickly turn life-threatening.

Continue to promote the health of a damaged tree through:

  • Watering
  • Mulching
  • Fertilizing
  • Seasonal Pruning
  • Annual Inspections

Providing your tree with the means to thrive will help it overcome most weather damage on its own.

Emergency Tree Removal After Storm Damage

When severe weather leaves your tree swaying, leaning, caused windsnap (broken off at the trunk), or windthrow (uprooted and blown over), the tree should be removed from your property immediately. To learn more about or contract an emergency tree removal service, visit

Windsnapped tree after severe weather

Note: For trees planted in rows, the emergency removal of any one of those trees may cause adjacent trees to lose their stability. Trees planted near one another will frequently use each other’s root plate for shared stability. Trees growing under these conditions must be professionally evaluated before their removal.

How To Prevent Tree Storm Damage

Controlling the impact of weather is possible in small scale scenarios. Objects and structures like walls, buildings, fences, hills, and shrubs can shield a tree from being severely damaged. It is when nature unleashes severe weather systems that a tree is truly put to the test.

Instead of relying on reactive treatment for damages, you can dramatically increase your tree’s strengths by being proactive and supporting its health before severe weather strikes. Consider the following measures to improve the vitality of your tree:

  • Watering
  • Mulching
  • Fertilizing
  • Seasonal Pruning
  • Annual Inspections
Seasonal tree pruning can help prevent severe storm damage

Note: These are the same measures you would use to promote a tree’s health after suffering significant weather-related damages.

Storm Damaged Tree

In this article, you discovered how to assess tree damages after a severe weather event, treat the damages, keep or remove the tree, and how to prevent weather damage.

By knowing how to identify and treat storm damage to trees, you can significantly extend their lifespan while substantially increasing their resistance.

Ignoring your trees after severe weather events creates the perfect environment for catastrophic property damages and potential fatalities.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit:

Tuesday, June 16, 2020

Evergreen Tree Diseases

Evergreen tree blight disease causing chlorosis and death of foliage

Keep your evergreen trees from dying and spreading killer diseases. By knowing what to look for and how to stop evergreen tree diseases, you can save your trees or have them removed. gathered the following information, symptoms, and treatment for pathogens that attack, weaken, and kill evergreen trees.

Diplodia (Sphaeropsis) Blight

Diplodia sapinea is the opportunistic fungal pathogen responsible for this disease. It affects various 2 and 3 needle pines and conifers. Especially susceptible are red pine, Mugo pine, Scots pine, Ponderosa pine, and Austrian pine. Diplodia blight infects trees of all ages, but higher infection rates are found among trees weakened by drought, infestation, and nutrient deficiencies.

Symptoms of Diplodia Blight – This disease is common among conifers, pines in particular. Signs that indicate a Diplodia blight infection include:

Evergreen tree disease with diplodia blight causing chlorosis of foliage
  • Stunted, brown needles and stems
  • Dying, tan-colored, young needles remain attached
  • Pollen cones and mature needles appear uninfected
  • Root collar rot in younger trees
  • Root disease
  • Small, black fruiting structures

In severe cases, entire branches can become infected. Resinous cankers may also form on the stems and trunk of the tree.

During late summer and fall, this disease produces pycnidia (fruiting bodies). Pycnidia are found near the base of needles, on scales of seed cones, or on tree bark. The presence of these fruiting structures, together with other symptoms, is compelling evidence that Diplodia blight has infected your tree.

Treatment of Diplodia Blight – Once a Diplodia blight infection is confirmed, the following management measures should be taken:

  • Remove and destroy debris from the base of the tree
  • Maintain grass and weeds below the tree trimmed low to the ground (increases airflow)
  • Carefully prune out and destroy infected stems and branches (each fruiting structure may contain thousands of spores)
  • Apply chemical controls beginning in the spring and every two weeks until new needle growth reaches full length.

If using chemical control, the following chemicals have shown to be quite effective in controlling this disease:

  • Copper hydroxide with mancozeb
  • Chlorothalonil
  • Thiophanate-methyl
  • Mancozeb
  • Methyl

Prevention of Diplodia Blight – Ways to prevent your trees from contracting Diplodia blight include:

  • Plant disease-free trees and shrubs
  • Plant disease-resistant species
  • Plant your trees far enough from others to maintain good airflow
  • Eliminate overhead watering practices
  • Care for your trees and encourage healthy growth (water, soil, fertilizer, etc.)
  • Prune and cut with sanitized equipment
  • Treat your trees preemptively against boring insects

When your tree is more than 25% infected, or the top portion of it has died, call a professional tree service to evaluate the damage and recommend a course of action. If you prune away a quarter of your tree, it will likely die. At this point, removal may be the only option to protect the rest of your landscape.

Cytospora Canker of Spruce

Leucostoma kunzei is the fungal pathogen responsible for this disease. Cytospora canker affects black, Oriental, white, Norway, and, most notably, Colorado blue spruce varieties. Cytospora canker occurs most often on mature landscape trees stressed by drought or poor care conditions.

Evergreen tree canker disease causing open wound in trunk and foliage loss

Symptoms of Cytospora Canker – This disease is common among varieties of spruce trees. Signs that indicate a cytospora canker infection include:

  • Lower branch dieback
  • Poor growth
  • Faded or brown needles
  • Large amounts of resin flow on affected/dying branches
  • Cut the branch to reveal reddish-brown soaked wood
  • Small, black fruiting structures

Cytospora canker diseased trees, in decline, will often present the following additional indicators:

  • Bark beetle infestation (confirmed by pitch tubes, boring dust, exit holes, galleries beneath the bark, and fast-paced decline from the top-down)
  • Spruce spider mites (can cause severe damage)
  • Pine needle scale
  • Spruce bud scale

As the health of a diseased tree declines, it can be successfully attacked by multiple insect species, making its decline and death an accelerated process.

Treatment of Cytospora Canker – Once a cytospora canker infection is confirmed, the following management measures should be taken:

  • Carefully pruning out diseased limbs is the only effective treatment for cytospora canker
  • Prune in late winter or dry weather to prevent spreading the disease
  • Destroy pruned, infected branches

Tip: Once a tree is infected with cytospora canker, fungicide sprays will have no effect on the disease and will not cure the affected tree.

Prevention of Cytospora Canker – Ways to prevent your trees from contracting cytospora canker include:

  • Plant disease-free trees and shrubs
  • Plant disease-resistant species
  • Plant your trees far enough from others to maintain good airflow
  • Care for your trees and encourage healthy growth (water, soil, fertilizer, etc.)
  • Increase watering intervals during times of drought
  • Have your trees inspected annually to detect any health or insect problems (spider mites, bagworms, etc.)
  • Have severely infected trees (dying or dead) promptly removed and destroyed to slow the disease from spreading and eliminate breeding sites for boring insects

When your tree is infected by a disease and infested by boring insects, call a professional tree service to either treat or remove the tree.

Cercospora Blight of Junipers

Pseudo-Cercospora juniperi is the fungus responsible for this disease. Cercospora blight of junipers affects the Cupressaceae (cypress) family, which includes multiple species of junipers and redwoods. Cercospora blight spreads to young foliage in warm, wet weather and can cause a tree to show signs of infection within two to three weeks.

Evergreen juniper tree with blight disease causing chlorosis and illness

Symptoms of Cercospora Blight of Junipers – This disease is common among varieties of junipers, redwoods, arborvitae, and Eastern red cedar. Signs that indicate a Cercospora blight infection include:

  • Lower branch dieback (foliage turns bronze or light brown then gray)
  • Inner foliage death occurs first as the disease works outward then upward
  • Small fuzzy fruiting structures appear on the dead foliage

Eventually, the dead foliage falls from the tree leaving the inner branches stripped of any foliage or twigs. In advanced cases, the outer foliage also dies off, leaving only the foliage at the very top of the tree.

It is the green (seemingly unaffected) foliage at the end of affected branches that differentiate this pathogen from other blight causing diseases that kill from the infection or canker site out to the tip.

Treatment of Cercospora Blight of Junipers – Once a Cercospora blight infection is confirmed, the following management measures should be taken:

  • Apply a liquid or wettable powder fungicide (copper fungicides are recommended) to the lower branches of trees with minor infection evidence. Spray all of the tree’s foliage for heavily infected specimens. Spray the trees in the beginning, middle, and again at the end of the summer season.
  • For trees with advanced symptoms of infection (fifty percent or more of the foliage), consider having the tree removed and destroyed to protect other trees on your landscape.
  • Carefully remove and destroy dead foliage and twigs from beneath infected trees.

During periods of drought, eliminate all overhead or spray methods of watering. The spread of Cercospora blight depends partly on splashing water and warmth.

Prevention of Cercospora Blight of Junipers – Once a Cercospora blight infection is confirmed, the following preventative measures should be taken:

  • Plant disease-free tree species
  • Plant disease-resistant species
  • Plant your trees far enough from others to maintain good airflow
  • Care for your trees and encourage healthy growth (water, soil, fertilizer, etc.)
  • Keep grass and shrubbery (surrounding the tree) cut low enough to permit free airflow
  • Have your trees inspected annually for early detection of potential issues

Have heavily infected trees removed and destroyed by a professional tree service. As the tree’s health declines, it becomes a target for insect infestations and other infections.

Evergreen Tree Disease Identification

Part of an evergreen tree’s growth process includes the occasional needle or leaf drop. During times of drought, a tree may lose more of its foliage than normal, appearing to be sick.

Evergreen tree disease signs and symptoms of blight

Some insect infestations like bagworms, mites, beetles, and scale can cause chlorosis and leaf drop that appears to be an infection versus an infestation.

When you cannot positively identify whether or not your tree has contracted a disease, call a professional tree service to help you figure out what is happening.

How To Identify and Treat Evergreen Diseases

In this article, you discovered evergreen tree disease information, the symptoms to watch for, and how to treat pathogens that weaken and kill evergreens.

By knowing what to look for and how to treat tree diseases, you can take prompt action to either save your tree or have it removed.

When you ignore the signs of evergreen tree infections, you risk not only losing your tree but spreading the disease to other trees on your landscape.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit:

Tuesday, May 19, 2020

How To Care for Trees

Tree care examination of foliage for signs of disease and infestation

Prevent your trees from becoming severe risks to your property and wellbeing. By knowing how to care for your trees, you can keep them thriving for decades. gathered the following information to assist you in caring for your trees from the time you plant them until their maturity and beyond.

Tree Care – Planting

Placing “the right tree in the right place” is your first act of caring for your tree and will determine much of how the tree grows and whether you will have years of joy and shade or multiple problems and expenses. Consider the following information when selecting the species and location of your tree:

Tree Species – When selecting the species of the tree you’d like to plant, the following will help you choose the right species:

  • Will the species tolerate your region’s hardiness zone?
  • Is the species known for invasive roots?
  • Is the tree an overstory or understory?
  • Does the tree need full or partial sun?
  • Is the tree tolerant to regional pests and diseases?
  • Is the tree deciduous or evergreen?

To determine your USDA Hardiness Zone, visit

Tree Location – As a tree grows, it can’t get up and move if its location becomes inconvenient. When selecting a location to plant your tree, use the following to guide your decision:

  • Are there power lines running over the location?
  • Are there utility lines running under the location?
  • Are there sidewalks, driveways, or structures nearby that could be damaged by invasive roots?
  • Does the location receive full or partial sun?
  • Is the location well-drained, or does water pool?
Tree location near building steps and sidewalk

Read more about selecting a tree species and a location to plant it at

Tree Care – Watering

Lack of water can cause your tree to wilt, suffer hydraulic failure, and die. To keep your tree in outstanding health, there must be a regular watering schedule that meets the needs of the tree. The following will help you determine how often to water your tree:

  • Water your tree three times per week
  • One of the three should be a deep watering (this will encourage the roots to grow deep)
  • Water the entire root plate (the root plate grows outward and is typically the same size as the tree’s crown)
  • During times of drought or intense heat, give your tree two deep waterings per week
  • When rainfall is plentiful, reduce the frequency of waterings

The soil around your tree must be well-drained. If water remains pooled after rainfall or waterings, your soil must be adjusted to allow proper draining. Reduce the frequency of waterings until the soil is improved.

Tip: The continuous application of organic mulch can help your soil structure maintain proper drainage properties.

Tree Care – Mulching

When organic mulch is applied correctly around your tree, it can improve soil quality and regulate both soil moisture and temperature. Consider the following when mulching your tree:

  • Apply a layer of organic mulch 3 to 6 inches deep over the entire root plate
  • Keep mulch pulled back 2 to 3 inches from the tree trunk and root flare (this will help prevent problems with decay, disease, and nesting wildlife)
  • Fluff the mulch when it compresses and add more when necessary
  • Remove and replace mulch when it becomes riddled with mold
Tree care includes the seasonal mulching of trees to protect and nurture roots

Organic mulch can be from a compost pile, straw, or wood chips.

Tree Care – Fertilizing

At times, the soil around your tree may need to have its chemical composition and pH level adjusted.

For trees that grow in acidic soil, the pH level should be 6.5 or less, for those preferring a base soil, the level should be 7.5 or above. Soil with a pH of 7.0 (6.5 – 7.5) is considered neutral.

Soil pH levels can be adjusted using phosphoric acid or sulfur to make them more acidic. While limestone, organic mulch, or wood ash will reduce the soil’s acidity. Many brands of fertilizer contain one or a combination of the above to adjust soil pH levels.

Frequently, the missing or deficient element in soil is nitrogen, and as such, the vast majority of fertilizers contain it.

Read more about fertilizing trees at

Tip: Tree fertilization should be done in fall (after the growing season) or late winter (before the beginning of the next growing season)

Tree Care – Pruning

Small tree branches can be pruned whenever they present problems at any time of the year. Large branches – branches comprising over 5-10% of the tree’s crown volume – should only be pruned in winter when the tree is dormant. Trees should never be pruned in autumn since the air is filled with diseases and decay fungi.

There are many reasons to cut tree limbs; they might be diseased or dead, they could be rubbing against other limbs, or they are competing with other branches and have to be removed.

Raising or thinning the canopy is another reason for limb removal. This is done to open the canopy to more sunlight or provide additional vertical clearance.

Tree pruning for shaping or removing problematic diseased or infested branches

Read more about pruning and cutting trees at

Annual Tree Inspections

Your tree(s) should be inspected by a professional tree service annually to detect any problems with abnormal growth, infestations, or disease.

This type of inspection is also known as a tree hazard assessment. It is used by arborists to determine whether or not any actions should be taken to improve the health and safety of the tree.

Tree Removal

There are times when the best course of action is to remove your tree. The following may require your tree to be removed to protect your landscape and surrounding trees:

  • Boring insect infestations
  • Infectious tree diseases
  • Severe storm damage
  • Severe root damage or rot
  • Leaning tree
  • Root damage to surrounding structures

If you suspect that your tree should be removed, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation and recommend the best course of action. Sometimes, the best way to care for your trees is to eliminate the ones that could compromise the health and vigor of the others.

Tree care for diseased and infested trees may require emergency removal

Caring for Trees

In this article, you discovered many ways to care for your trees from the time you plant them until their maturity.

By promoting the health of your trees, you enable them to grow strong and resist attacks by disease and insects.

Neglecting the care of your trees will lead to abnormal growth and potential death by disease and infestation.


Fast Tree Removal Services Atlanta
3379 Peachtree Road #555aAtlantaGA 30326
(404) 220-9965

Fast Tree Removal Services Dunwoody
2111 Peachford CirDunwoodyGA 30338
(404) 220-9963

To view the orignal version of this post, visit: